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Fiord-by-fiord guide

This section aims to help visitors to understand the Fiordland (Te Moana o Atawhenua) Marine Area and to be better equipped to enjoy it while they are there. It provides information on different aspects of each fiord throughout the Fiordland region: key historical and landscape features, marine reserves, the best areas for anchoring, obtaining fuel and water, hut accommodation and navigation recommendations, including hazard warnings.

Essential checklist

  • bring ‘a clean bottom’ – a clean vessel hull that is
  • disinfect all dive gear (for AVG virus) before entering Fiordland waters
  • always carry up-to-date maritime charts
  • fit a good VHF aerial for improved radio communications
  • carry an Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon (EPIRB). It is mandatory for commercial ships to carry a registered 406 MHz EPIRB. In a remote location like Fiordland it is customary for recreational vessels to also carry one, and it is foolish not to
  • carry good quality anchoring gear – high-holding anchor and enough rope/ chain (at least 70 m)
  • carry a spare length (15 m) of garden hose for attaching to the water hoses that you will encounter throughout Fiordland
  • thoroughly check permanent sternlines and moorings before you use them throughout Fiordland
  • know the weather forecast; be aware that it can change very quickly in Fiordland
  • know the right radio channel to receive weather forecasts for the area you are in
  • prepare for sandflies – they can make your trip very unpleasant. Carry repellent and screens to cover entranceways
  • bring in plenty of fuel. Availability is very limited – you can only get it in Milford/Piopiotahi and Doubtful/ Patea Sounds
  • carry sufficient stores for your trip through Fiordland; note that you have to take your rubbish out (crushed cans will take up less space than bottles in your rubbish bag)
  • know where you can fish and how much you can take from an area. Fish for a feed, not for the freezer.

Maps and navigation information

Please note that these maps and the navigation and anchoring recommendations are only provided as a general guide. The most up-to-date charts need to be referred to when navigating through Fiordland waters. Fiordland is an extremely challenging maritime environment because of its terrain, its isolation and the variability of sea and weather conditions. More information about navigation can be found in the ‘Travelling in the fiords’ section. The ‘Charts and Books’ section recommends navigational charts.

Big Bay area

Big Bay. DOC

Big Bay. DOC

The area around Big Bay, and particularly Martins Bay, was an important settlement site for Maori between 1650 and 1800. It gave easy access to food resources in the nearby lakes, sea and forests, as well as sought after pounamu (nephrite, ‘New Zealand jade’ or greenstone). It was home to both Maori and European settlers. There are areas of Martins Bay around the short-lived Jamestown settlement that still have roses and sycamore trees – reminders of the pioneering farming settlement’s failure due to its extreme isolation (the last people left in the 1920s).

There are two Department of Conservation huts in the Big Bay area: Big Bay hut sleeps nine people and Martins Bay hut sleeps 12 people.

Anchorages

There are two anchorages in Big Bay.

There are two anchorages in Big Bay.

There are two anchorages in Big Bay. The first anchorage is to the north side of Big Bay, just east of Crayfish Rock and is to be used in northerly conditions. The second anchorage is on the south side towards the head of the southern end of the bay. There is a mooring which is used as a sternline to hold the vessel towards a south-westerly swell (note: this mooring is owned by a commercial fisherman, Jon (‘Boof’) Hansen, so please contact him on VHF Channel 67 before using). When using either anchorage, be aware of changes of wind through the night as fast-moving fronts can quickly and dramatically change conditions in these exposed anchorages.

Navigation

Heading north from Big Bay it is advisable to stay one nautical mile offshore to avoid a rock that extends three quarters of a nautical mile offshore on North Reef.

Heading south from Big Bay it is advisable to be three quarters of a nautical mile off shore to avoid South Reef.

When travelling from Big Bay to Milford – keep in water deeper than 45 m.

When heading into Milford Sound/Piopiotahi from the north, be aware of the three rocks that lie around the Brig Rock and Yates Point area. During daylight hours it is safe to travel between Brig Rock and Yates Point; however, at night it is advisable to give Brig Rock a wide berth. Refer to LINZ Chart 7622.

Milford Sound/Piopiotahi

Milford Sound/Piopiotahi is the northernmost and best known of all the fiords. It was thought to have been named in the 1820s by sealing vessel Captain John Grono, who was born near Milford Haven in Wales (Hall-Jones, 1979). The Maori name Piopiotahi means one piopio bird. The piopio (now extinct) was a ground-feeding native thrush that declined rapidly after the introduction of mammalian predators.

The sheer steep-sided walls of Milford Sound/ Piopiotahi rise up 1,683 m at Mitre Peak and contain spectacular waterfalls. The distance from the head of the fiord to the open sea is about 16 km.

Milford Sound/Piopiotahi is the only fiord that can be reached directly by vehicle and because of that it receives up to 500,000 visitors a year. It is the main access point for tourist activities in the Fiordland (Te Moana o Atawhenua) Marine Area. There are boat launching facilities at Deep Water Basin. The sheer numbers of people visiting Milford Sound/Piopiotahi means there are great pressures put on its marine environment.

Anchorages

Milford Sound/Piopiotahi

Milford Sound/Piopiotahi. DOC

Freshwater Basin

The wharves here are operated by the Milford Development Authority and are for the sole use of commercial tourist boats operating from Milford Sound/Piopiotahi.

Deepwater Basin

It is possible to obtain fuel and water here, and there are also toilets and showers. When approaching the channel to Deepwater Basin, stay halfway between the port hand markers and the western side of the channel. As a note of caution, care should be taken where the Arthur River joins the channel after heavy rains, as strong eddies can be experienced here. There are two port and two starboard markers at this point going through to Deepwater Basin.

Keep to the middle of the channel through the markers, and do not turn to port until you are at least 100 m past the last port hand marker to approach the berths. Contact Fiordland Lobster Company on VHF Channel 67 to arrange a berth while in port.

Harrison Cove

Anita Bay

Anita Bay

Anchoring at Harrison Cove is only permitted at depths greater than 60 m and is generally not practical. There are two moorings that are used by Real Journeys Ltd as part of their commercial operations. This leaves very little room for other vessels to anchor. However, should you wish to anchor, contact Real Journeys on Channel 10. Not suitable in strong northerly or westerly winds.

Anita Bay

This is a fair-weather anchorage only. There is a mooring and sternline on the western side of the bay, close to Post Office Rock (named after the rum barrel that historically acted as a post box for the settlement of Milford). It is essential if you are anchoring to use a sternline. Not suitable for any easterly wind, or strong northerly or westerly winds.

Navigation

The commercial tourism operators travel in a clockwise direction around the fiord. They head out along the southern wall and return back in against the northern wall.

Heading south from Milford Sound/Piopiotahi there is an area south/south-west of St Anne Point (shallow area highlighted on LINZ Chart 7622), which can break a long way off shore in a heavy south-west and westerly swell greater than 5 m.

When travelling from Milford Sound/Piopiotahi to Poison Bay – keep in water deeper than 45 m.

Piopiotahi (Milford Sound) Marine Reserve

Octopus

Octopus. STEVE WING

Piopiotahi Marine Reserve is situated along the northern side of Milford Sound/ Piopiotahi, from the head of the fiord to Dale Point. The underwater habitats it covers are mostly deep muddy fiord basin, with a large section of deep reef and a small section of shallow rock wall along the shore. There is very steep rock wall on the inner northern side of Milford Sound/ Piopiotahi, which is dominated by delicate deep-water sessile invertebrates. These are animals that are fixed to the rock wall, including encrusting tubeworms, sponges, soft corals, colonial sea squirts, black coral and anemones. Piopiotahi Marine Reserve is one of the most popular places in Fiordland to dive and see the black corals for which the fiords are famous.

Poison Bay (Papa Pounamu)

There are two theories on the naming of Poison Bay: firstly that one of the early sealers was struck by food poisoning at the bay; or secondly that it was named as Poisson (fish) Bay by a French mariner. However, no record of a French vessel was ever made in that area (Hall-Jones, 1979). The Maori name, Papa Pounamu, means greenstone flat. Poison Bay is a popular destination for day boats fishing from Milford Sound/Piopiotahi.

Scorpionfish

Scorpionfish. STEVE WING

Anchorages

This bay is a fair-weather anchorage in east to south-east and lighter south-west conditions. Due to the exposed nature of the bay be mindful of weather changes during the night, especially a change to north-west conditions.

Navigation

When travelling from Poison Bay to Sutherland Sound – keep in water deeper than 45 m.

Sutherland Sound/Little Bay (Te Hapua)

Sutherland Sound is the fiord immediately south of Milford. It was thought at first to be a small bay by the Acheron survey until Donald Sutherland sailed into it in 1883 to explore and chart its full extent (Hall-Jones, 1979). Sutherland observed, “The lake abounds with fish and following them is no scarcity of sharks, which infest the tidal river and lake wherever fish are found” (Hall-Jones, 2002). Maori know this fiord as Te Hapua – the lagoon.

Sutherland Sound

Sutherland Sound. DOC

Sutherland Sound is unique because of its estuarine nature. At low tide, a series of channels cross the extensive mud and sand flats. The shallow outer 4 km of the fiord is constricted by forested flats and a sand spit at the entrance to the sea. This is the least modified and visited of all the fiords.

The fiord has resident stocks of flatfish, spiky dogfish and stargazer. However, there are no rock lobsters or paua due to periodic low salinity. Sutherland Sound has never been commercially fished.

Anchorages

Sutherland Sound should not be entered without local knowledge due to the shallow nature of the estuary and bar.

Navigation

When travelling from Sutherland Sound to Bligh Sound – keep in water deeper than 40 m.

Te Hapua (Sutherland Sound) Marine Reserve

Anita Bay

Flounder (patiki).
RICHARD KINSEY

Te Hapua Marine Reserve is the least studied reserve in Fiordland. This is largely due to the shallow sill at the entrance to the fiord, which makes accessing the reserve by boat dangerous, as ocean waves often break across the shallow entrance. During one of very few research trips to the reserve, a unique environment was observed within the very isolated basin, which is connected to the sea by a narrow channel. Marine animals seen while diving included flounder, dogfish and high numbers of rock crabs and juvenile starfish. Future monitoring will provide us with a better understanding of the marine life in this area.

 

Bligh Sound (Hawea)

Bligh Sound (Hawea) was named by John Grono, the early sealer and frequent name giver, after Governor Bligh of New South Wales, Australia. Grono’s first command when he first visited Fiordland in 1809 was called the Governor Bligh (Hall-Jones, 1979).

Turn Round Point, Bligh Sound

Turn Round Point, Bligh Sound
(Hawea). DOC

Bligh Sound has a wide entrance for a northern fiord and is relatively shallow (~90 m), until Turn Round Point where it suddenly deepens to over 180 m. The fiord zig zags approximately 18 km inland to the head at Wild Natives River. The fiord has a rich early Maori history with evidence of historical campsites and many associated place names.

Anchorages

Radio communication is available on channel 66 for all the anchorages below.

Escape Cove

This is a fair-weather anchorage only; a sternline must be used for this anchorage.

Kelly’s

Kelly's

Kelly’s

Bounty Haven

Kelly’s

This is a good fair-weather anchorage suitable for all winds in moderate conditions. Use of the sternline is essential.

Porcupine fish. STEVE WING

Porcupine fish. STEVE WING

Amazon Cove

A good fair-weather anchorage, but be aware there is very little room for manoeuvrability. A sternline is essential for this anchorage.

Bounty Haven

This is the best anchorage in Bligh Sound in strong conditions and heavy winds. However, be warned that in very rough conditions even this anchorage is not fully sheltered.

 

Hawea (Clio Rocks) Marine Reserve

Miraculous nudibranch.

Miraculous nudibranch.
STEVE WING

Most of the reserve is deep-basin habitats, but there are also large areas of sheltered shallow rock-wall habitats and deep-reef or rock-wall habitats. Underwater mapping of the reserve shows mostly steep rock walls on the shaded western side of the reserve, compared with more broken rocky reefs on the reserve’s more sun-lit eastern side.

The near-vertical rock walls of Turn Round Point are a special feature of the reserve, with abundant reef fishes and invertebrates feeding on plankton swept past in the high tidal flow. Red and black coral trees are relatively abundant along the rock walls in this area.

The north-eastern corner of the marine reserve is a designated area for commercial rock lobster holding and pot storage.

Clio Rocks China Shop: no-anchoring area

This china shop is a unique and fragile habitat feature with the Clio Rocks rising from 220 m at the middle of the fiord to just 2 m from the surface on the eastern side of the fiord. An abundant community of red and black corals is found here, which is why anchoring is not permitted.

Navigation

The Clio Rocks are a navigational hazard. They lie between Turn Round Point and Evening Point on the southern side of Kelly’s anchorage (see LINZ Chart 7623).

When travelling from Bligh Sound to George Sound – keep in water deeper than 40 m.

George Sound (Te Hou Hou)

 

George Sound (Te Hou Hou)

George Sound (Te Hou Hou). DOC

George Sound was first thought to have been named after mariner George Stevens from Riverton/Aparima, who piloted the Acheron during its survey in 1857. Another possibility is the fiord was named by John Grono after one of his New South Wales neighbours, George Hall (Hall-Jones, 1979). The fiord’s Maori name Te Hou Hou, means five finger tree.

This is one of the longer fiords at 21.2 km. It has two short arms at its head. The southeastern arm has access to the George Sound track, which winds through to the north-west arm of the middle fiord of Lake Te Anau. The George Sound hut is situated at the head of the fiord. George Sound is often the first stop after steaming south from Milford Sound/Piopiotahi, missing out Bligh Sound, as it has better anchorages and for many is a more interesting fiord.

Anchorages

Radio communication is available on channel 66 for all the anchorages below.

Anchorage Cove

Anchorage Cove

Alice Falls

Alice Falls

Southwest Arm

Southwest Arm

Anchorage Cove

This anchorage is suitable for all weather in moderate conditions. Caution should be used with heavy swells from a westerly and northerly direction, as large surges will be experienced in this anchorage. There is a sternline from the eastern shore joined to another line coming from the island. Anchoring is not necessary. A water hose is attached to the sternline. The head of the bay is very shallow, so caution should be used when approaching the sternline. The sternline is not suitable for vessels of drafts of more than 2 m.

There is a general anchoring area in the middle of the bay for use in light winds.

Alice Falls

This is an all-weather anchorage, and the best anchorage in George Sound in strong winds. Caution should be used when anchoring here, especially during high rainfall, as the waterfall will push the vessel sideways while setting the anchor and retrieving the sternline. Be careful not to go too far back into the sternline as it shallows very rapidly. While strong to violent winds can be experienced in this anchorage, as long as the anchor is of good quality and well set you will not be blown out.

Be aware of a rock at the head of the fiord that is marked on LINZ Chart 7623.

There is another anchorage that is suitable for light winds in the middle of the bay.

Southwest Arm

This is considered an all-weather anchorage; however, sea conditions will make this anchorage uncomfortable during high tide and strong winds. This is due to the loss of protection from the outlying breakwater (on the northwestern tip of the anchorage), which is covered during high tide. Use of the sternline is essential.

The Department of Conservation hut at the head of George Sound sleeps eight people.

Navigation

When travelling from George Sound to Caswell Sound – keep in water deeper than 40 m to Looking Glass Bay. Keep in water deeper than 50 m from Looking Glass Bay to Caswell Sound.

 

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